For those of you who don't know me, I have been an athlete in various sports my whole life, most recently retiring from MMA in 2011 following a 5 anchor labrum repair to my shoulder. To say I was hesitant to start a shoulder focused sport, even 4 years later, would be an understatement! I was terrified of retearing my shoulder and imagined it in many horrific ways but, at some point you have to believe in your training and learn to trust your body again.
I started climbing in June 2015 and was at the very beginner of beginner levels. Being a high level athlete most of my life, that itself was pretty hard to accept but it also lit a fire inside me that I'd been dying to find since leaving fighting. I competed in my first competition in October and although I finished dead last it was well worth it for the experience!
Now enough about me, onto the program.......I decided to do an overall focus, splitting between route climbing and bouldering since I'm kind of new to this and really just want to improve overall as opposed to focusing strictly on bouldering.
Week 1 was super simple, do your top 4 route climbs and top 6 boulders to establish a baseline......
I ended up getting 3 x 5.10a / 1 x 5.10b or a starting average of 5.10a for routes AND 4 x V2 / 2 x V3 or a starting average of V2 for Bouldering.
My goals for this 9 week program are maybe higher than they should be but why not reach for the moon and see what happens! For route climbing I'd like to increase to a 5.10c steadily and be able to project 5.10d. For bouldering, I feel pretty good at V3 for projecting right now so I'd like to steadily get V4s and be able to start projecting V5s!
So there you have it, week 1 in a box, much more to come......
No comments:
Post a Comment